Shoe Care Guide

Small everyday gestures

We often underestimate the small, everyday actions we take. Yet some can considerably extend the lifespan of our shoes. Here are a few:

It is recommended to change your shoes daily, as a pair worn all day accumulates moisture, particularly perspiration, and can lose its shape slightly due to exertion. Letting them rest for at least 24 hours allows the inside to dry completely, which limits bacteria and odors. Alternating shoes also reduces premature wear and tear on the materials and construction.

Let your shoes dry on their side or elevated. The outsole is often the wettest part after use, and if it lies flat on the ground, air doesn't circulate. Water evaporates much more slowly, and moisture tends to rise and stagnate inside the shoe, promoting odors and mold. By laying them on their side, you free the sole from the ground, and the shoes dry faster.

Shoe trees are essential for preserving the shape of shoes because they prevent the upper from sagging and minimize creases at the front of the shoe. Wooden shoe trees are particularly recommended, as they not only maintain the shape but also absorb some of the day's moisture, reducing odors and helping to extend the life of the shoes. Ideally, they should be slipped on immediately after removing the shoes, while they are still warm, and left in place until completely dry.

Choosing my shoe trees

The 5 steps for proper shoe care

1. Know the type of leather your shoes are made of

Smooth leather is the "classic" type of leather seen on the majority of shoes: the surface is rather smooth to the touch, sometimes slightly grained, and it often has a thin finishing layer that protects it.

A simple test to perform: on many smooth leathers, a drop of water remains as a small bead for a few seconds, whereas on delicate leathers or suede/nubuck, the water penetrates and can darken the material.

Oily leather

Deeply nourished with fats, this leather has a naturally patinated surface and marks very easily.

Metallic leather

Leather which has a finish with a "metallic" effect, often gold, silver or iridescent.

Nappa leather

To identify it, moisten your finger and press on the leather: if it marks easily, it is probably nappa.

Cordovan leather

Very dense and smooth surface, with a deep gloss that develops upon polishing.

Patent leather

Leather covered with a layer of varnish that seals the surface and protects it from the elements.

Reptile leather

Leathers that come from rare animals, prized for their unique texture (crocodile, caiman, snake...)

Suede and nubuck are leathers with a soft, matte feel and a velvety appearance. They are very similar and are cared for with the same products. The main difference lies in which side of the leather is sanded. Nubuck is sanded on the outside, resulting in a smoother, often finer, velvety texture, while suede is sanded on the inside and can appear slightly more fibrous. These leathers are very delicate and absorb water very quickly, hence the importance of waterproofing them.

2. Clean the leather

Cleaning is a key step that prepares the leather to receive proper care. It removes dust and dirt that would otherwise become embedded and damage the material, and it also removes old layers of polish to start with a clean base before applying a new one.

3. Nourish the leather

Nourishing leather is essential to keep it supple and durable. Over time, walking, cold, heat, and air dry it out: it becomes stiffer, marks more easily, and can eventually crack. Nourishing creams help maintain leather's suppleness in the long term.

4. Re-color the leather

Recoloring a leather shoe becomes important when the original color no longer returns with simple cleaning and cream, and when lighter areas appear due to wear (creases, toe, heel). The goal is not only aesthetic: by restoring pigments where the color has faded, the shoe is evened out and a clean base is established for proper nourishment and protection.

5. Protect the leather

Protecting leather is important to prevent stains from water, snow, salt, and other everyday stains. Without protection, moisture penetrates the material, can leave rings, harden the leather, and accelerate its aging. A good waterproofing spray creates a barrier that protects the leather without suffocating it.

Discover our recommendations for each type of leather

Smooth leathers

Special leathers

Suede & Nubuck

Frequently Asked Questions

It all depends on the material, the use, and even the weather. But cleaning every two weeks is still an excellent average.

Thanks to the Saphir products we offer, polishing once a week is more than enough. However, to maintain a mirror-like shine, we recommend polishing them daily with a polishing brush or chamois cloth. If your shoes have been exposed to water, snow, or harsh weather conditions, let them dry with wooden shoe trees, then polish them as needed once dry.

The difference lies in which side of the leather is sanded. Nubuck is sanded on the outer side, resulting in a smoother, often finer, velvety feel, while suede is sanded on the inner side and can appear slightly more fibrous.

For a pair of shoes that mixes suede and smooth leather, always start with the suede. In many cases, suede care is sufficient to refresh the smooth leather as well; otherwise, once the suede is finished, move on to the smooth leather with its dedicated care routine. Important point: suede products can generally come into contact with smooth leather, but the reverse is not true. Absolutely avoid getting creams/polishes for smooth leather on suede. To be precise, apply with a chamois cloth and finish near the suede with your finger.

In our opinion, Saphir's Beauté du cuir range offers the best value for money: affordable yet truly effective products. The Saphir Médaille d'or range, available exclusively in our Perfectionist's Box , takes quality even further but is significantly more expensive. We recommend it primarily to those who are very demanding, consistent in their care, and who want the very best.

Leather cream is primarily used for conditioning: it nourishes, keeps the material supple, and revives the color. Shoe polish paste, richer in waxes, works more on the surface: it protects, enhances shine, and can achieve a mirror-like finish, but it doesn't nourish the leather. In practice, you first apply the cream as a base for conditioning, then the paste for the finishing touch when extra shine is desired.