Shoe Care Guide

Everyday gestures

We often underestimate the small everyday gestures. Yet some of them can significantly extend the life of shoes. Here are some of them:

It is advisable to alternate pairs of shoes from day to day, as a pair worn all day accumulates moisture, especially perspiration, and deforms slightly under stress. Allowing them at least 24 hours of rest allows the interior to dry completely, which limits bacteria and odors. Alternating also reduces premature wear of materials and assemblies.

Let your shoes dry on their side or elevated. The outsole is often the wettest part after use, and if it remains flat on the ground, air won't circulate. Water drains much more slowly, and moisture tends to rise and stagnate inside the shoe, promoting odors and mold. By placing them on their side, the sole is lifted off the ground, and the pair dries faster.

Shoe trees are essential for preserving the shape of shoes as they prevent the upper from sagging and limit creasing at the front of the shoe. Wooden shoe trees are particularly recommended as, in addition to maintaining shape, they absorb some of the day's moisture, which reduces odors and helps extend the life of the pair. Ideally, they should be inserted just after taking off the shoes, while they are still warm, and then left in place until completely dry.

Choosing my shoe trees

The 5 Steps to a Good Interview

1. Know the Leather of Your Shoes

Smooth leather is the "classic" type of leather seen on most shoes: the surface is rather smooth to the touch, sometimes a little grainy, and it often has a thin finishing layer that protects it.

A simple test to perform: on many smooth leathers, a drop of water remains as a small bead for a few seconds, whereas on delicate leathers or suede/nubuck, the water penetrates and can darken the material.

Oily leather

Deeply nourished with fats, this leather has a naturally patinated surface and marks very quickly.

Metallic leather

Leather with a "metallic" finish, often gold, silver, or iridescent.

Nappa leather

To identify it, moisten your finger and press on the leather: if it marks easily, it's probably nappa.

Cordovan Leather

Very dense and smooth surface, with a deep luster that develops with polishing.

Patent leather

Leather covered with a layer of varnish that seals the surface and protects it from the elements.

Reptile leather

Leathers from rare animals, prized for their unique texture (crocodile, caiman, snake...)

Suede and nubuck are leathers with a soft, matte feel and a velvety appearance. They are very similar and are cared for with the same products. The difference primarily comes from which side of the leather is sanded. Nubuck is sanded on the exterior side, which often gives it a finer velvet nap, while suede is sanded on the interior side and can appear a little more fibrous. These are very sensitive leathers that absorb water very quickly, hence the importance of waterproofing them.

2. Clean the leather

Cleaning is a key step: it prepares the leather for proper care. It removes dust and dirt that would otherwise become embedded and damage the material, and it also removes old layers of polish to start with a clean base before applying new polish.

3. Moisturize the leather

Nourishing leather is essential to keep it supple and durable. Over time, walking, cold, heat, and air dry it out: it becomes stiffer, shows more marks, and can eventually crack. Nourishing creams help maintain leather's suppleness in the long term.

4. Re-dyeing the leather

Recoloring a leather shoe becomes important when the original color no longer returns with simple cleaning and cream, and when lighter areas appear due to wear (creases from walking, toe, heel). The goal is not just aesthetic: by restoring pigments where the color has faded, the shoe is harmonized, and a clean base is re-established for proper nourishment and protection.

5. Protect the leather

Protecting leather is important to prevent water, snow, salt, and other everyday stains. Without protection, moisture penetrates the material, can leave rings, harden the leather, and accelerate its aging. A good waterproofing agent creates a barrier that protects the leather without suffocating it.

Discover our recommendations for every type of leather

Smooth leather

Special leathers

Suede & Nubuck

Frequently Asked Questions

It all depends on the material, usage, and even the weather. But cleaning every 2 weeks is an excellent average.

Thanks to the Saphir products we offer, a weekly polish is more than enough. However, to maintain a mirror shine, we recommend polishing them daily with a polishing brush or a chamois cloth. If your shoes have been exposed to water, snow, or bad weather conditions, let them dry with wooden shoe trees, then shine them as needed once dry.

The difference comes from the sanded side of the leather. Nubuck is sanded on the exterior, which gives it a softer, often finer feel, while suede is sanded on the interior and can appear a little more fibrous.

For a pair that mixes suede and smooth leather, always start with the suede. In many cases, its care is also sufficient to refresh the smooth leather; otherwise, once the suede is done, move on to the smooth leather with its dedicated routine. Important point: suede products can generally touch smooth leather, but the opposite is not true. Absolutely avoid creams/polishes for smooth leather touching suede. To be precise, apply with a chamois cloth and finish near the suede with your finger.

In our opinion, Saphir's Beauté du Cuir range offers the best value for money: accessible, yet truly effective products. The Saphir Médaille d’Or range, which we only offer in our Perfectionist's Kit, goes even further in quality but is significantly more expensive. We recommend it especially to those who are very demanding, regular in their maintenance, and who want the very best.

Cream is mainly used to maintain leather: it nourishes, keeps the material supple, and revives its color. Shoe polish paste, richer in waxes, works more on the surface: it protects, enhances shine, and allows for a mirror finish, but it does not nourish. In practice, cream is applied first as a maintenance base, then paste for a finish when more shine is desired.